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PHOTOG


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In this thread i will try to post stuff i recall vividly from the days i used airports in vacation days, duty-free shops and high-end malls, then try to beef it with some product context. 
The days when wide reflective corridors smelled like expensive perfume and booze, when cigarette ads where overlooking everyone sitting down reading fancy fashion & travel magazines filled with nothing but ads.

So, basically a thread for discovering and studying advertising trends and sometimes a bit of /fa/shion due to the curiosity of the brands behind some products, or also using it as a tool to promote an otherwise not-attractive thing. In my case i will focus mostly on fragrance products but there will be notable exceptions.
Replies: >>1994
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Often in the fashion and luxury product world the head honchos are visually quite competent or artists/photographers themselves so seeing their work seems like a sensible way to consume their product, culturally speaking, but logically they are also subject to that one rule about being behind times or fighting against the future, following the current trends or riding the wave, and a few men who are ahead of times or even above time.
Here we will see some of those in either brand subject or image dumps if i don't see that many references or the brand doesn't have that much material. And sometimes also drawn ads, for composition and /loomis/' sake.
>>1992 (OP) 
Neat thread idea, Photog. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with! Cheers.  :)

>ps. pls don't be a faggot about it all, kthx.
Replies: >>1995
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Today we will be looking at the house of Pierre Balmain, i recall his early 90's ads with the "glowing" clothing and bottles, and they have enough info for a subject dive.

Long story short he was the son of people well-connected in the fashion industry in Paris, studied pre-modernist architecture but cut it short due to WWII war time, in the occupation he used his drafting and drapery skills in the office of Lucien Lelong, one of the major fashion figures in France at that time and supposedly so good at directing fashion efforts the Vichy germans heeded his advice of letting parisian artists stay in France rather than be relocated to Berlin and Vienna, also so good that butthurt french authorities pardoned him of collaborationist activities after the war.

In this office Pierre befriended a certain other head designer called Christian Dior, and both would end up conceiving what in the fashion world is called "The New Look", and among them also a bunch of internees with one being Hubert de Givenchy. After the war they both founded their own houses, with Dior supposedly snubbing Pierre's invitation to be his right-hand man which led to direct confrontation later on, and in his particular case Balmain would be the less known of both yet his less hectic schedule would land him much more prestigious jobs like royalty and theater, who knew he was as good in terms of trendy stuff. Later on he would also conceive the "Pretty Lady" look, or Jolie Madame.

>>1994
>Spoiler
Pretty hard considering the topic at hand lol
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Known as one of the countless masters who was also a raging buttmunching homosexual deviant, Pierre Balmain would lead his house synonym of subdued elegance until 1982 when he succumbed to liver problems. In 1983 as often happens the name had a rebranding and was led by his aide of 3 decades Erik Mortensen until 1990, then by Herve Pierre (the guy who produced the ads i saw) until he quit in late 1992 to design the dresses of U.S. First Ladies' until Biden, then by good old Oscar de la Renta in the rest of the 90's until 2002, leading them to a resurgence, then a series of unfortunate events happened with 2011 being an interesting year when Olivier Roustein, a gay nigger adopted by jews, took it and subsequently did some shenanigans we will post about later for visual reference.

Since the first days the brand released perfumes, first one was Elysees 64-83, ballsy name as it was Balmain's personal phone number, and later in 1947 came Vent Vert which became a hit for over a decade in the 50's and 60's. Revlon got the distributing rights and today, after that special feller took helm, Balmain Parfums get sold by Inter Parfums. Also a Qatari investment group bought them in the mid-2010's and we will see that effect early on in 2016 and take a drastic turn in 2019-20.
Nowadays Balmain fragrant stuff is considered obscure despite having a couple of past glories in the perfumery field, doesn't help the fashion side of things became part of the outrage school. Personally i've never seen their bottles in the wild and it's not common to see them even in online sellers' posts; would certainly pick an old bottle if what people say is remotely true.
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So let's go directly to the point i wanted to do: Here's the ones i saw back in the day. Practically the first 2 started this whole post, 90's rebrands of Ivorie de Balmain and Balmain Monsieur, a women's green herbal chypre and a male's citrusy spicy aromatic fougere on par with the era. The latter was formulated by Germaine Cellier, a gril considered one of the greatest perfumers and the main reason many houses did not find odd to employ women in the laboratory rather than somewhere else in their rooms.
Very interesting lighting alla noir, the attire are reminiscent of the 50's Jolie Madame look and the dude is wearing an outfit in vogue around the late 60's that many spymasters and playboys used on TV. A tasteful tribute, very flashy when seen on magazines, particularly because these are loaded with ink and in high heat/humidity they get pasted with each other.
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The beginning, the fashion sketches ads normal to the era, very classy. 
Elysees 64.83 and Vent Vert were also made by Germaine Cellier, we can deduce her work for Balmain via Roure Bertrand Duponts laboratory was crucial for their success. 

Quick note now that we are into it: In Grasse, France, due to its very particular conditions people could grow flowers and herbs easier and cheaper than other places and due to french authorities and richfags' culture of using too much perfume this town became the center of raw ingredients for perfumes in France and some for Cologne, the chief place making "Eau de Cologne". This coupled nicely with the fact Grasse also had master tanners since the middle ages and the techniques of making fragrant oils was used to perfume leather gloves and other stuff, famously by a dude called Galimard in the late 1500's, the tanner for the Medici's and other bunch of aristocrats. Later Grasse was subject to massive taxes and the leather business became an expensive niche among them but the tradition of fragrant raw materials stayed for a long while.

One day in 1820 a dude called Roure married a dudette called Bertrand and together founded a raw material factory called Roure Bertrand, decades later in 1900 the sons and grandsons managed the place, some of them studied hard and one of them, Louis, was able to extract the fragrant oils and stuff from materials using a solvent-based process rather than the traditional boiling; this was very highly advanced compared to other places and later, associated with a synthetics master called Dupont, opened a big ass factory and subsequent laboratories and became Roure-Bertrand-Dupont. Then after WWII this big conglomarate with labs opened a perfumery school called the Roure Perfumery School. Cellier was among the specialists in the interwar period.
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Another famous hit of the house, also made by Germaine Cellier. The only male offering was Monsieur for a long while. Male high perfumery wasn't an actual thing until the mid-60's, normal until the mid-70's and the mainstream thing it is today until the mid-80's. 

So to end the Roure story for now: Around the time Louis of Roure was doing his stuff, in Lyon France a couple of brothers founded a company named after them, Givaudan, with some money they moved to Geneva and made a factory, later on after WWII they also made a perfumery school called obviously the Givaudan School. In the 1960's, amidst fierce competition among each the Grasse houses and them, Roche pharmaceuticals bought both Roure, the big player in Grasse, and Givaudan, one of the biggest players outside that place, but used them separately. That is until the late 80's when they formally merged and became a giant called Roure Givaudan, later on the rival schools were closed and re-opened as one but under the name of Givaudan. 
Many, many brands despite their flashy backgrounds are actually just a frontname for projects from certain distributors working under the ingredient palette and restrictions of the big material makers, one case being the Givaudan Monster.
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Didn't find a lot of things later, their perfume side was left untouched and not very uniform until recently for the asian and weirdo market.
Asians being more or less well-versed in classic euro houses that are currently obscure for euros themselves is a phenomenon worth checking. In terms of perfumery some of these are sought-after in vintage form (old formulas) by few people who attest to their nuclear potency, or like one reviewer said for Ivoire , being a witch's brew.
Something like a vintage Monsieur would be hard to collect nowadays due to its heavy use of natural citrus-based oils, which tend to stale out after some years which give a perfume the effect of "vinegar" in it entry sniff, or top notes as called by most.

Balmain Homme has a video around when they were promoting it, Koray Birand was the photog and the models were trying to explain the concept which seemed nice, a militaristic approach on a bottle with the heraldic eagle and the ranks in the bottle's shoulders. Aromatic citrus with immediate humid leather over a base of sweet-ish woods, seems worth a try but cannot find it.

Speaking of the past entry, Miss Balmain was also made by Cellier, the brand couldn't stop winning and Ivoire was also a winner until they had to live with past entries and flanker versions for many years. Collecting stuff from the brand practically means collecting Cellier but old bottles are either stale or already reformulated due to restrictions, back then she could practically use anything short of radioactive materials, since 1990 many ingredients are limited and smelling something she tried to convey is nowadays nigh-impossible aside from buying it from a perfumer with tons of materials or making it yourself, which is very expensive due to having to buy many ingredients.
Replies: >>2008
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We are now entering the gay nigger jew era so we can say the Extatic grill and Milla Jovovich are the last screams of glory from what was a dressmaking company with some bitching perfumes on the side.
Very elegant bottle in Extatic, who knows what it smells like but the straw tube is pretty nice detail. I sure as hell haven't seen any of these in any mag or ad or airport. Hair Couture i think is a line but who knows, old school hand crank bottles too.
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In Fall 2016 there was this common trend of deconstructing the fashion world, so we got this thing, models on the runway except some of them are crying, which was one of the first instances of Balmain going the non-elegant side of tracks.
Here we can feel the claws of what some of us call sometimes current year, this here tho was +1
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Abandon all hope, now it really is current year for Balmain:

Les Eternels by photographer Carlijin Jacobs has been an interesting, if played out, trend release for Fall 2024 in the 'fume world with it being a series of new stuff and old classics rebranded in a single collection, in economic collaboration with the otherwise traditional Estee Lauder, and with a colourful, very 20's diverse campaign full of AIDS led by Roustein and Hans Dorsinville, a strange mulatto from Gotham Agency and founder of the Creative Coalition for Diversity... 
It is as it sounds and behold how it looks like
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When i though anorexic models weren't a thing anymore this grill here shut me up, Lulu Wood, certainly and definitely would but in these pics she isn't very appetizing. Not a feet guy but hers are way too big for that chassis.
And why is a vanta black mannequin doing there am i rite
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Supposedly this one is the most famous due to the girl here being well-known, Dove Cameron, i do not know who she is but it says here she's a homo. Why is no one normal here.
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This one could've been considered normal some years ago, something resembling an old fashioned swimmer getting out from somewhere with a dark sunset downtown behind her, presumably L.A.
Lulu again but in full motion now, what a sultry albino mink, would. Funny how they need to add grain in the photos so these shoots don't look like AI-generated stuff, and yet they still do because the bottles are computer-rendered. Also the whole thing, and even stuff since the plandemic, feel dark and soulless despite the closeness and colourfulness like The Substance showcased in full glory shit movie btw
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Catering to all audiences here, note how the asian is chosen for the most historical of names here, Vent Vert, referencing what we previously discussed in >>2001
Although supposedly these don't smell remotely the same, not so much because of regulations but because Roustein had nothing to do and re-imagined these on his own volition when he was resting after some weirdo freak accident in which he severely burned himself from a gas fireplace explosion at a dinner party and whose flames on his body mysteriously didn't extinguish completely even after throwing himself into his basement pool. His own words, i can only imagine someone chuck full covered in Vaseline for something so drastic to happen.
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So that's the journey of Balmain under the passing eyes of a fragrance enthusiast in the mid-20's with access to image search engines, we can see a modest luxury house going full diverse extravagance in the last decade with too many product fronts, some saturated, which isn't really a rare thing to see in that world but it makes me wonder what the hell is going on. And as usual the years of shifting trends appear again, 1945-47, 1968, 1980-82, 2007-8 and 2019-20.
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Anyways, here's your Balmain bro
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